Tastemaker: Carol Wallack

From time to time, mmmChicago asks local “tastemakers” — everyone from bartenders to DJs to shopowners to scenesters — questions about Chicago and their area of expertise. Carol Wallack, a self-professed surfer girl and former chef and coowner of Deleece has set out on her own. sola, at 3868 N. Lincoln Ave., serves American cuisine with Asian and Hawaiian influences. Here, she answers a few questions about her latest endeavor.

Chicago certainly isn’t a hotbed of Hawaiian cuisine—what kind of tastes should diners expect at sola?
We aren’t really Hawaiian (ie: spam or Kalua Pig). My heart is in Hawaii as I live there part-time (being a surfer from California for over 30 years) but I love the foods (fish, vegetable, fruits) that are indigenous. There is a lot of Asian influence there… it’s simple, clean and fresh. We always offer a Hawaiian fish or two that I have flown in 36 hours out, right off the dock.

Is there a must-try dish on the menu?
The “signature” rack of Lamb, the miso cod, the porcini-crusted salmon, the trio of tuna tartars, the artichoke fritters, any Hawaiian fish (Opakapaka, Ono, Onaga)…

What could Chicago’s restaurant scene use more of? Less of?
Less pretention.

When you’re not in your own kitchen, where do you go to dine?
Yoshi, Trio, Sansei (my favorite restaurant on Maui), Penny’s Noodle Shop.

What’s on deck for spring?
More of the same, but different: Contemporary American with Asian influence.

By David Hammond

At SOLA self-described former surfer girl Carol Wallack has dreamed up a menu board with expert balance. A roasted-pepper-and-fennel soup came with a sambuca-infused creme fraiche; a sea greens salad was crisp with water chestnuts and played the bitterness of hijiki against the sweet spiciness of hoisin. There were some gimmicks: the “trio of tuna tartares,” though fresh, were indistinct in flavor; Parmesan fries with truffle oil sounded fabulous but turned out to be a fancified version of what you’d get at Gene and Jude’s. Far more memorable was the black cod, marinated three days in miso paste and rice vinegar, then seared and served with curried sunchokes and bamboo rice; it paired very well with a 2004 Mak sauvignon blanc big with grapefruit notes. We also tried Colorado lamb chops with eggplant and leeks, for which our server suggested a medium-weight Cartlidge & Brown pinot noir—an excellent match. Capping things off were citrus pound cake with mango curd and a molten chocolate cake with sesame brickle ice cream and wasabi-vanilla bean syrup. Sola delivers its entire menu curbside—call ahead, pay with a card, and pull up in front.

Eight Reasons to Eat at Sola
An FOD report on Sola (3868 N. Lincoln Ave.; 773-327-3868):

1. The tables are far apart.
2. No loud music.
3. Reasonably conversation friendly.
4. Fireplace is a nice touch.
5. Artichoke fritters are a throwback to Gordon Sinclair.
6. Peppered tuna done to perfection.
7. Really liked their bread basket.
8. Great coffee.

Here comes the sun

It’s not a day at the beach, but Sola manages to take the edge off winter
By David Tamarkin Photograph by Donna Rickles

Note to restaurateurs: sun imagery works. Especially in the middle of winter.

Case in point: Sola, Lincoln Square’s comfortable new venue for chef-owner Carol Wallack’s cooking. Even though the name translates to “alone”—a reference to the fact that Wallack is on her own this time around, having just come from a collaboration with her sister at Deleece—customers and the restaurant’s publicists are focusing only on the first part of the word: Sol. “Sun.” And judging from Sola’s crowds, sun is exactly what Chicago is craving.

The essence of the sun—or at least the sun-soaked culture of the West Coast and Hawaii—is what Wallack tries to infuse into every dish on her menu. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t; either way, her menu is usually successful. The caramelized onion tartlet is a superb starter, its golden crust a rich base for the creamy, sweet-and-savory combination of onions, apples and Gruyère. And her brandade (whipped salt-cod puree) contains a touch of ginger, just enough to lighten up this classically rich dish—and, of course, to mark it with Wallack’s stamp.

Another Wallack original is “Carol’s Colorado Lamb Chops.” She’s been working on this dish for years, and it shows. The lamb is so tender it’s practically creamy, and the Dijon crust plays off the lamb’s gaminess brilliantly. It almost made up for the lackluster grouper, set atop a pile of bland purple rice.

Dessert is a funny concept for a restaurant that attempts to capture the essence of the beach (and all the trim, toned bodies on it). But Wallack consulted HotChocolate’s Mindy Segal on her creations and came up with a few that fit with her philosophy. The Thai coffee crème brûlée and pecan molasses cake are both fine. But they aren’t essential, and it’s just as well if you skip them. Besides, as Sola tries to remind us, swimsuit season is just around the corner.

New Bistro offers

Asian-inspired fare for sophisticated tastes

by Rick Karlin

Download the full article

• 032206_Chicago_Free_Press.pdf

Local News

sola

Sherman Kaplan Reporting

CHICAGO (WBBM Newsradio 780) — Self described “surfer girl” Carol Wallack has found the perfect balance at her new restaurant, sola, at 3868 North Lincoln Avenue. She cut her cooking chops at Deleece, before venturing out on her own a few months back. sola has become an instant hit, and for good reason.

In fact, we found hardly a stumble from appetizer to dessert. Begin with seemingly simple tuna tartare, served as a trio focusing on individual embellishments. One is fairly straight forward, a second has a pleasant, not overly sharp pepper bite. The third is seasoned with ginger.

In another creation, Wallack uses lobster and ground shitakis as filling for Thai style pot stickers, set in a golden coconut and ginger broth. This is big time come back cooking!

Among other apps, Asian pear salad is simple and direct with blue cheese and walnuts. Carrot soup with star anise was the recent daily broth at sola. This could not be better, giving direct proof of Wallack’s pronounced culinary talent.

The California style cooking has other Asian influences, each subtle, suggestive of a clear sense of style and taste. Roast salmon crusted with dried porcini mushroom chips is a fine example. One might not really know this is salmon, save for its pale pink color and fresh identifiable taste.

Black cod in miso broth or five spiced Asian duck are other examples. Flavors are never overstated, but most if not all are clearly present and identifiable as part of the whole culinary impression.

While some of this suggests the ephemeral character of fine dining, there are contrasts. Braised short ribs, pork tenderloin in a bacon wrap or a New York strip steak with Béarnaise and Worcestershire sauces break the mold.

As for desserts, chocolate cake with a warm liquid fudge center is a model of its type and leads the list of nearly a dozen selections. Service is perfect. Expect to spend about $75 a couple for three courses plus add ons. There is valet parking and even curb side carryout.

It’s gettin’ hot out here!

Well, maybe lukewarm, but now’s the time to plan for alfresco season.

By Terri Mooney

sola

The outdoor cafe at this North Center spot’s courtesy of the same folks who designed the interior, so expect similar decor elements–like a matching ornamental railing and earthy hues–to spill on to the sidewalk around May 1. Dig into springtime offerings like striped bass over baby bok choy with a peekytoe crab-laced green papaya salad ($25).

Restaurant Reviews

sola/***
By Pat Bruno

You know how it is when you can’t get a tune out of your head? Sola, a new restaurant in Lake View, had me doing that with “O Sole Mio.” That song was bouncing around in my head as “Oh, Sola mio,” a positive prelude to how I might wish to sing the praises of this pleasant and most enjoyable restaurant.

The chef and co-owner of Sola is Carol Wallack. Not too long ago, she was in with her sister at a restaurant called Deleece (just up the road a piece on North Southport). Sola is open, bright, refreshing and radiates positive vibes.

There are some restaurants where there is so much raw energy that you get all jittery. And there are restaurants like Sola, where you can sit back, relax, get into the moment. Everything is smooth and the service is at your side but not in your face. Tables are nicely spaced, so you can chat without shouting, and you also can muse, connect with your food.

Ramp it up, people!

Starve a cold, feed a spring fever with these fresh veggies

By Amelia Levin

Yep, another schizo Chicago spring. Just when we think we’re onto a real warming trend–zap!–it’s frigid again. It’s enough to drive us to, well, eat. Good thing spring has just sprung at these these spots.

Spring pickin’s: asparagus

Perhaps the most popular spring vegetable, asparagus delivers enough antioxidants to dose the Jolly Green Giant. Plus, legend has it the slender green stalks have aphrodisiac qualities–perfect for when spring love is in the air, right?

Eat ’em at: sola

Chef Carol Wallack puts it simply when she says asparagus stalks are great because “they’re sweet and taste good.” We agree. At her Lincoln Square eatery, she serves them lightly grilled with a white soytruffle vinaigrette alongside porcini-crusted salmon ($19).

Bruno’s Quick Bites

The food has three dominant influences: Asian, Hawaiian and American. The goodness of this pleasant and most enjoyable restaurant is subtle in that you can have a fine three-course dinner for as low as $24 (before tax and tip). Classy digs yet very casual. Try the caramelized onion tart, Asian pear salad, seared scallops, lamb chops, braised short ribs and pecan molasses cake. ***